African American Skin Issues

It is well known that melanin in brown skin provides protection from the ravages of aging due to ultraviolet light (UVL). In fact, the melanin in African American skin provides a natural sun protection factor (SPF) of about 13.4 as compared to 3.4 for white skin. This natural protection from the sun means less damage to the skin and fewer signs of aging. Therefore, melanin in the skin of African American women accounts for the fact that they often appear younger than Caucasian women of the same age. In addition, the changes that do occur as African American skin ages are often delayed so they occur at a later age as compared to whites. As would be expected, photoaging in African Americans is more pronounced in individuals with lighter skin hues. When aging changes do occur, most prominent are changes in the texture of the skin (roughness), the appearance of benign growths (dermatosis papulosa nigra), pigmentation changes (dark marks or discolorations) and a loss of the volume of the skin (sagging).

There are four essential components to maintaining healthy brown skin:

* Knowledge
* Self-examination
* Protection
* Nurturing

Once you understand the essential components for healthy skin, you will be well equipped to take care of your skin.

Sunscreen Tips

* All women with brown skin should use sunscreen daily
* Always apply sunscreen 20 minutes before you’re exposed to the sun to allow your skin to absorb the product and create a protective shield.
* Use sunscreen generously on all exposed skin—face, neck and hands. Apply at least a shot-glass full (about one ounce).
* Store sunscreen away from the sun and heat to prevent spoiling.
* Reapply it after vigorous exercise or swimming even if the product is labeled “water proof”.
* Take note of expiration dates. If a bottle does not have an expiration date, toss it after one year.
* Sunscreen in foundation wears off after only a couple of hours so it’s best to apply sunscreen separately, under makeup, or in moisturizers that say SPF 15 on the label.
* Sunscreen formulations include creams, lotions, sprays, gels, roll-ons, and moisturizers. Find a product that meets your personal preference.

Nurturing
The final step to care for healthy brown skin is to nurture your skin. It is important to avoid irritants that may stimulate the production of excessive melanin. Ingredients in soaps, cleansers, toners, moisturizers, astringents, anti-aging products, and anti-acne agents to name just a few, are possible irritants. The following is a list of potential irritants to avoid:

* Cleansers, toners or astringents containing alcohol, propylene glycol, fragrance, or dyes
* Products containing essential oils (concentrated oil extracts from plants)
* Moisturizers containing fragrance, lanolin, dye, alcohol or propylene glycol
* Sunscreens containing fragrance, oil, PABA
* Makeups containing oil
* Alpha-hydroxy acid in high concentrations or at certain pHs
* Detergents and fabric softeners containing fragrance, dyes, or preservatives

Now that you are aware of ingredients to avoid in maintaining your brown skin, you can concentrate on proper cleansing technique. Many women with brown skin make the mistake of over-cleaning—cleaning the face, neck, elbows and knees too often or too roughly. But most skin care problems (acne, dark marks, clogged pores) are not caused by dirt, so there’s no need to use either harsh products or rough cleansing techniques. The following cleansing clues will guide you.

Tips on Better Cleansing

* Cleanse your face daily to remove dirt, oil and makeup
* Avoid abrasive cleansers or cleansing products (puffs, loofahs), which can irritate brown skin
* Cleanse facial skin with your fingertips and massage gently in a circular motion
* Use products designed for your skin type: oily, dry, normal, combination, sensitive, acne-prone or hyperpigmenting
* Exfoliate if you need to remove dull, dead skin cells by using gentle exfoliating acids found in skin products—but test the product on a small patch of skin first or check with your dermatologist.

Bottom Line

Finally, to properly care for brown skin requires knowledge of its unique structure and properties. Monthly self-examinations and protection from the sun are essential for the health of this skin type. Avoidance of products that irritate brown skin, and lead to dark marks, is essential.